Visitors to Poland are often enchanted by the historic nature of the town squares and their beautifully restored buildings. Whether in the summer sun or the more subdued light of the evening, one can see these stunning building facades which are often ornate and highly detailed. It is hard to believe that the city was almost completely destroyed during World War II.
As the Russians advanced westwards, surrounding the city of Breslau, the city was declared to be a fortress—Festung Breslau—and many civilians were trapped within. The subsequent siege of the city and its eventual capture in May 1945 resulted in a huge loss of life for defenders and the Russian liberators alike. Civilians died in their thousands and areas of the city became huge graveyards. Whether it was German explosives or Russian shells, the Capital of Silesia suffered extensive damage with almost ninety percent of its buildings destroyed.
As we say, boys will be boys and they like playing with their toys.
For the city to look as it does now, then I can only have admiration for those who endeavoured to rebuild the city brick by brick using basic construction tools and often just their bare hands. How the city looks now is a huge testament to the reconstruction work that the post-war impoverished nation put into restoring these buildings.
New toys to play with.
In these relatively more peaceful times, boys still enjoy playing with toys. I am not sure if it is the same in other Polish cities but here in Wrocław it is noticeable—the noise of these vehicles is hard to miss.
In the summer evenings, it can be a pleasure to sit outside in the beer gardens of the city squares. Most of the bars are full, free tables are hard to find and there are always people ambling about. Whether they are tourists enjoying the atmosphere or locals out for the night, the Rynek is often buzzing with the city’s nightlife. Buskers, street entertainers, singers, all of these things contribute to what can be a pleasurable experience.
I fear that most Poles, especially those native to Wrocław think of this as something normal, which in my experience it isn’t. I have travelled, I have been to some fantastic places but often the town centres or cities are dead in the evenings. The nightlife in Wrocław has a special character. The city may not be the most fashionable, the most artistic, the most beautiful or romantic but it has a wonderful atmosphere.
And yet, there is something that spoils that atmosphere.
On the flower square, it is possible to see boys with their toys. Guys drive around the square in performance cars with very loud exhausts or ride on motorbikes revving the motors to attract attention and show off their rides. Personally, I don’t see the fascination. What is so interesting about having the loudest or the most expensive car? Driving around in such a vehicle means that there is no possibility to sit and chat, or to relax and have a beer. What’s the point unless one is trying to avoid parking charges? And, if you own a Porsche then surely you can pay for parking!
Wrocław’s Nightlife
The city’s population is boosted by the number of students who attend the Universities here. The result is the city has a critical mass of young people, tourists, and locals. Together this ensures that the bars and restaurants are busy. An evening out in Wrocław is filled with potential, a feeling that anything can happen. A random encounter can lead to new friendships.
There is a buzz about the city, which is hard to find in many other places, especially in England. Many rural towns in England are dead after the shops close for the evening. Few people go out, with the only food available from fast-food restaurants. And this is in a country with a long history of hostelry and social drinking. I find it heartbreaking sometimes when I go to England and there is just no life to those otherwise wonderful historic places.
Wrocław is perhaps understated, and not on every tourist’s radar. Maybe this is changing, and it is easy to see why it is marketed as ‘the meeting place’.
For those who have never visited it, well I can heartily recommend it. For this Englishman, it is definitely the place to be.
